4 days in Ecuador

If you're going to join a travel tour, it's worth arriving a few days early. Here's a few reasons why.

1. If any of your flights are delayed and you miss a connection, at least the tour won't have left without you. Give yourself one less thing to worry about.
2. Depending on the time difference, this will help you recover from any jet-lag.
3. You'll have a few days adjusting to the local conditions. I'm not used to high altitudes (Quito is 2,800m above sea level). I had a slight headache and nausea for the first two days. Whilst not paralysing, I was able to go at my own pace rather than trying to keep up with others.
4. The first city usually only serves as a meet-up point, rather than a destination with planned tour activities.

I arrived in Quito, the capital of Ecuador three nights before the tour officially started. It's worth noting that most flights into Quito arrive late at night - by which time it is too late to check-in to most hostels. Not only that, but the city centre is about an hour drive away from the airport. So unless you're game enough to trust that the taxi driver will drop you off at your exact destination, rather than somewhere "close-enough" for you to navigate the rest of the way by yourself in the dark - I highly recommend staying at a hotel close to the airport. They cater specifically for late arrivals or passers-by with early flights. Most offer a pick-up service for a small additional price. 

I stayed at Hostal Colibri Aeropuerto, and highly recommend them. I paid $30US, plus $12US to have them pick me up from the airport. I garnered my first impression of Quito from my driver. He didn't speak an ounce of English and was not in the least embarrassed or apologetic about it. I came to realise that he was a microcosm of Quito's attitude towards tourists. 

You're welcome to visit, but we refuse to bend over backwards for you. Few of our restaurants will have signs or menus with English translations. Go by the pictures if you must. Don't make it hard on yourself by trying to look for a place that serves English big breakfast or skim soy lattes. So you want to check out the Presidential Palace? The tour may or may not be in English.

If you don't already speak at least an intermediate level of Spanish - Quito forces you to learn fast. Needless to say, I haven't spoken this much Spanish since, well, living in Spain. 

Quito has a charm of run-down luxury. A relic of Spanish colonial architecture, the streets make you feel as though you're in Europe than in South America. That is, until you spot Quechuan women of indigenous descent in traditional dress walking around selling scarves. Dos por cinco! Dos por cinco! In a city where Catholic churches and monuments were built on top of sacred Quechua ground, it's hard not to admire their resilience and pride in upholding their ancestry.

La Basilica 

View of Quito from La Basilica 

Colonial architecture

UNESCO has declared Quito a World Cultural Heritage Site, having the largest most-preserved and least-altered historic centre in Latin America.

El Panecillo

This metal statue of the Virgin Mary is said to have been built at the top of a hill previously used by the Incas for sun worship.

View of Quito from El Panecillo 

Tip: Catch a hop-on hop-off tourist bus ($12US) to the top of the hill. Tourists have been known to be held at knife point for their valuables while choosing to walk up. You could catch a taxi, but drivers generally don't like waiting, which makes it hard to get back down.

El Palacio de Gobierno

I was lucky enough to catch sight of President Rafael Correa waving to the Ecuadorian people.

In Otavalo, less than an hour outside of Quito, a community of Quechuans can be found. For the older generations, Spanish would have been their second language (if at all), with Quechua being their first and primary tongue. The town is known for its artisan markets and relies heavily on tourism. The colours and patterns of their wares are so beautiful I wanted to buy just about everything!

I definitely plan on coming back to Ecuador, especially to do the Galapagos Islands, which I didn't have the time or budget for this time around.

Next stop, Colombia!

Love, Noeline

xox

Getting your sh!t together before you travel

I think it's easy for people who blog while traveling to have it enshrine them. How they got there and how they get by is usually not disclosed (probably because they have a personal assistant). All we see is the final product: immaculate photos of themselves posing against exotic horizons (probably because they have a personal professional photographer), perfectly captioned with the brands that make up their outfit (probably a combination of being sponsored to wear them, or having received those pieces for free in exchange for a shoutout).

On the other hand, my travel style is more pleb, and less glam. There I said it.

One of my aims over the next 6 months will be to show you just how attainable travelling is (if like me you're willing to do it on the cheap), and share the things I've learnt along the way that I wish someone had told me.

So before I get into the thick of my tour (which officially starts tonight), if you've ever wondered what it takes to prepare for travelling to South America - this is for you.


1. Applying for your Venezuela tourist visa

This was probably one of the most traumatic experiences of my planning. Don't do what I did and waste time seeking advice through Visas Direct. I was given the wrong information by two (albeit well meaning) consultants.

Go straight to the embassy website and contact them via email. I was then advised of the relevant process and provided the official forms to fill out.

In conclusion:

• If you're entering Venezuela via AIR, staying less than 3 months, and only entering the country once in a calendar year... you DO NOT need a visa. You will be given a tourist card from the airline.
• If you're entering Venezuela via LAND or SEA, staying less than 3 months, and possibly entering multiple times within a calendar year... MOTHER FUCKING YES you need a visa.

It took me weeks to set the above information straight. But like I said, go straight to the embassy as even my information may have changed by the time your turn to apply comes around.

In Australia, the Venezuelan embassy is in Canberra, so unless you're willing to make a trip there and back - you'll need to send your passport, forms, money order and return envelope in the mail. Allow 10-15 working days from them receiving it, as to when you can expect to receive it back.

While your application is processing, you'll pretty much need to hold your breath. I personally found the Venezuela embassy to be amongst the least accommodating I've ever encountered. They have a small window frame for when you're allowed to call the office and enquire about the application process. The first time I called, the person responsible for answering such questions was apparently out of the office, and I was asked to call back in half an hour. The second time I called, my question was pretty much ignored and I was asked to put it into an email. Upon telling them I had already posed the question in an email sent several days prior and still yet to receive a response, I was simply told a reply will probably come in the next day or so. GAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH.


2. Applying for your Brazil tourist visa

Smooth. Go to their website. Fill out the e-form. Print out the confirmation and send it off along with your documents, money order, and return envelope. Again, allow 10-15 working days from them receiving it, as to when you can expect to receive it back.

If you email them asking if it has been received, they will even email you back conforming so, as well as the exact date of when it will be posted back to your loving arms!!!!!!

If you're from Sydney and can be bothered, they have an office where you can drop off and pick up your passport. But you can't just show up - you'll need to book an appointment through their website. Depending on how busy the period is, this wait could be anywhere from a few days to a few weeks (in which case it would be faster for you to send it in anyway).


3. Recipocrity fees

This is pretty much an entry fee into a certain country, usually because your country charges their people for entry too.

For Australians, you'll need one for Argentina (apply online here before you leave), and Chile (paid on arrival).


4. Flying through the USA? Make sure you get your ESTA

This is known as a visa waiver. If you're travelling to the USA for less than 90 days, even if it's just a stop over, you'll need to apply for one of these.

Mine cost $14US and lasts for a year.


5. Vaccinations & medication

Go to your doctor and get up to speed with all your vaccinations.

Particularly for those travelling to South America, it's highly recommended to get vaccinated for Yellow Fever (mine cost around $150AU). Make sure you ask for a certificate (mine was an extra $5AU). It's not common practice, but I've heard it's still possible to get asked for this at border crossings.

If like me you suffer easily from motion sickness, your doctor can provide a script for prescription only medicine to take while overseas.


6. Travel insurance

I highly recommend and usually go with Travel Insurance Direct. I have claimed through them before with no hassles.

However, their price for 6 months cover was out of my budget, so I went with Southern Cross instead.

Apply early, as you'll need to provide a copy of your travel insurance with your visa application(s).


7. Travel card

I'm with Commbank, so took out a Travel Money Card through them. I used it previously while in Vietnam, and had no trouble. They give you two cards to access the one account, which is handy if one gets lost or stolen (just make sure you call and cancel the other one!)

This time round, instead of loading a particular currency on the card, the consultant advised me to leave it in AU dollars, as this would save me from one less conversion fee.

However, there is also the option to load multiple currencies if you prefer to roll that way.


8. Day bag

I was bag snatched in Vietnam (luckily I didn't have anything valuable inside). Two guys on a motorbike pulled up to the kerb where I was waiting to cross the road, and the one sitting on the back  scooped it out of my folded arms.

A lot of the situation was also self-inflicted since I was using a clutch (STUPID I KNOW!) The outer lining of the bag I intended to use was peeling off, leaving flakes of plastic all over my arm, and I was stupidly game enough to walk around with a clutch in the meantime while shopping for a replacement.

So you know all those fashion bloggers who outrightly match their travel outfits with the "perfect clutch"? - DON'T DO IT!

They probably have security guards; or only used it for the purpose of that photograph; or stick to private resorts closed off from poverty-stricken locals (where's the fun in that?); or or are extremely lucky - or did get mugged and just didn't tell you.

It was so disheartening because I realised I had built a feeling of invincibility after travelling around Europe for an entire year without anything like that happening.

Whenever something bad happens, as a coping mechanism I automatically search for silver linings. At least my passport or phone weren't inside. At least there was hardly any money lost. At least the bag snatch was quick and clean. No injury. No bloodshed. If I had a handbag would they have tried to slash the strap? Would they have dragged me on the road until I let go?

DON'T FEEL INVINCIBLE. EVER.

I've learnt my lesson and since bought a Travelon Luggage Anti-Theft Cross-Body Bag. It has reinforced cut-proof straps, RFID blocking (so they can't scan past you and steal information from your cards) and locking compartments.

You can read the reviews or purchase your own through Amazon.


9. Additional costs I kinda but not really saw coming

Travel backpack
Damn these are pricey. I'm usually a suitcase kinda gal, and didn't realise how expensive these were until it came time to shopping for one. I borrowed one off my boyfriend (thanks bf!) to save money. Be prepared to spend upwards of $300-$400AU.

Hiking shoes
I usually get around in Havaianas, sandals or my normal running shoes (if need be). But since I'll be climbing Machu Picchu, a friend strongly recommended I invest in proper hiking shoes.

I bought the Women's Arrowsmith NGX Mid from Kathmandu.

Warning: if you have small feet like me (I'm a size 36), be sure to try them on with thick socks and walk around the store before committing to buying them. Try and find a design with a small make, as the lowest size in women's is usually a 37. Experiment with the biggest size in the kids range. It could save you money, but I personally found these to be less sturdy than hiking shoes in the adult range.

Be prepared to spend $130-$400AU.

Sleeping bag
I've never gone bush camping, so have never owned one. Don't make the mistake I did by buying one online - unless you've been to the store and looked at it, touched it and carried it.

Depending on where you're going, look out for the temperature ranges offered by each sleeping bag - as they're often designed to suit one or a few different climates.

I initially bought the Escape Outdoors North Pole 2 Hooded LH Sleeping Bag online from Ray's Outdoors because it was relatively cheap given it's temperature range. But beware, if the website doesn't specify the weight, it probably weighs a shit ton! When it arrived in the mail, I also came to realise how massive it was, and how it would take up a substantial amount of space in my bag.

I shopped around properly. If you live in Sydney, there's a street in the CBD called Kent St (behind Town Hall) which is lined with shops that specialise in backpacking gear. Go there, shop around and compare!

I ended up going with the Travelite 300 from Mountain Designs. They were having a sale at the time I bought mine, so it was down to $189AU from $250AU.

Check it out! Sleeping bag purchase 1 vs purchase 2.

For a travel appropriate sleeping bag, be prepared to spend anywhere from $200-$700AU.


10. Cancel/hold any existing contracts

Health Insurance
I'm with nib. You can put your membership on hold instead of cancelling completely, to save you from serving waiting periods when you come back.

Gym
I'm with Fitness First. Given your contract period is over, they need about one month notice before they cancel your account and stop charging you - so don't leave it last minute!

Mobile
I have a fear of commitment and have never had a mobile phone contract. I'm with Telstra pre-paid on an outright phone. Your phone number will remain active for 6 months from the last recharge. That way people can get you on the same number when you get back.


Even if you don't plan on travelling for another few months or years, I hope the above info has helped  put into perspective the kind of preparation you'll be in for. You'll need to harness major time management skills if you're to juggle it with full-time work.

Particularly if you have multiple visas to apply for, you should hop to it asap, as each embassy requires and holds your passport for processing of up to 3 weeks at a time.

Happy travel planning!

Love, Noeline
xox

Socialising and travelling for introverts

Despite having been on my bucket list for a long, long time - any actual preparation towards making my South America trip happen has all been last minute.

In a similar vein to expecting parents who delay their special announcement until the end of the first trimester - I, too held back on saying anything until all my visa applications were approved, and my passport safely back in my hands.

You know you have trust issues when you expect your passport to get lost in the mail. (Which is also why I can't shop online because the anxiety kills me. How the rest of my generation manages to deal with it, I have no idea).

However, what I've found to be the hardest part in this whole process was playing catch-ups and saying 'see you later' to people, in the few weeks I had remaining.

This took (and is still taking) place over a series of breakfasts, lunches, dinners, drinks and desserts - sometimes within the same day, usually over consecutive days, over the past few weeks. Mind you, this was on top of still working full-time, commuting late nights from the city to my home in the suburbs, only to wake up at 5am the next morning to go to the gym and do it all over again.

I was am drained.

Last week, my boyfriend and I were in his car, which was the closest thing to any alone time I'd had in weeks. Overwhelmed by this moment of reprieve, I burst into tears, seemingly out of nowhere. He asked me what was wrong.

"I'm just peopled out."

It's easy to palm this off as a superficial first world problem. Write a blog about it, and it could be misconstrued as boastful attention-seeking in the hope that someone will console that I just have too many friends and not enough time to see them all.

Some of you (congratulations for reading this far) are probably thinking that I could have got it all over and done with by having one big farewell party.

However, the burden of being an introvert is that this "solution" feels like an easy way out. Sure, you get to see everyone, but how many people do you actually get to have a deep, uninterrupted conversation with, without feeling like you're neglecting someone else?

It's not that introverts are anti-social. We just prefer more intimate settings where we can fully dedicate our attention to one or a few at a time, with ample time between each.

I've spent the last week in Newcastle (about two hours drive from Sydney) with my boyfriend - and it has had the effect of a much needed retreat! We had dinner and drinks with friends on two nights, then I spent the rest of it lazing on either the bed, couch or beach reading my Kindle.

Now I'm now back in Sydney to spend my final four days with family, and am having dinner with one other dear friend tomorrow.

In the interests of time, the only thing I'd have done differently would be to finalise my trip earlier, so I'd have more time between catch-ups, as opposed to the whirlwind farewell tour I've subjected myself to.

Moving forward, if my mental and emotional exhaustion has reminded me anything, it's that one should honour thy introversion.

IF YOU'RE AN INTROVERT GOING ON A TOUR GROUP

1. Balance time with people, with time spent alone

Don't feel obligated to participate in every single group activity or outing. Some people are only on the tour for a short period; they can afford to go "hard out" because they probably plan to rest when they get home. If you're on a tour for an extended period, you'll need to space yourself out wisely. In the end, the group will be better for it, because you'll be refreshed and pleasant the next day, rather than short-tempered and cranky (well, that's how I get anyway!)

2. Don't be scared to separate from the group

You will get free time from structured tour activities. If you're enjoying yourself and having a great time, by all means stick with the group. But don't feel bad about separating yourself if while sight-seeing or looking for something to eat, you find that their pace or preferences don't match with yours. This will stop you from feeling like a burden, or being resentful towards them. You may even come across one or a few kindred spirits who feel the same way!

3. Be honest

Extroverts may misinterpret your actions as showing malice or rejection of the group, of being distant, difficult or selfish. The best thing you can do is be honest. If you want to separate because you want to go at a slower pace, say so. If it's because can't afford an activity, say so. If it's because you wanted to see a different tourist attraction, say so. If it's because you want to try a different restaurant, say so. If people are more than welcome to join you, say so - but make it clear that you're not asking people to "take sides." Sometimes you'll want to separate from the group because everyone else is tired, and you're the one who wants to go out!

4. Don't be a people pleaser

Ultimately, remember that you've paid to be here. Don't be a people pleaser doing what others want to do. Often, the hardest part can be convincing yourself (not others) that you deserve to enjoy your holiday, too.

IF YOU'RE AN INTROVERT

• Avoid feeling guilty about needing time alone to reflect and recharge. This will allow you to give the next day your full energy, and/or the next person your full attention.
• Explain that you need some time out to yourself. Real friends will understand and respect this.
• If you find yourself needing to constantly defend yourself, or that only "solid" excuses will do, it may be time to rethink your relationships.

IF YOU HAVE AN INTROVERTED FRIEND, FAMILY MEMBER OR PARTNER

• Respect their space and don't take it personally when they want to be alone.
• Don't assume that just because they have "free time," that this makes them obligated to go with whatever plans you suggest filling it with.
• Don't make them feel bad or guilty for preferring to stay home, particularly on a Friday or Saturday night when society dictates they should be out partying. 

For further reading, I highly, highly, highly, highly recommend "Quiet: The Power of Introverts in a World That Can't Stop Talking" by Susan Cain. Here are a few of my favourite quotes:

We live with a value system that I call the Extrovert Ideal - the omnipresent belief that the ideal self is gregarious, alpha, and comfortable in the spotlight… We like to think we value individuality, but all too often we admire one type of individual - the kind who's comfortable enough "putting himself out there." Sure, we allow technologically gifted loners who launch companies in garages to have any personality they please, but they are the exceptions, not the rule, and our tolerance extends mainly to those who get fabulously wealthy or hold the promise of doing so.

... people who value intimacy highly don't tend to be, as the noted psychologist David Buss puts it, "the loud, outgoing, life-of-the-party extrovert." They are more likely to be someone with a select group of friends, who prefers "sincere and meaningful conversations over wild parties." 

It can be hard for extroverts to understand how badly introverts need to recharge at the end of a busy day. We all empathise with a sleep-deprived mate who comes home from work too tired to talk, but it's harder to grasp that social overstimulation can be just as exhausting.

I remember how liberating it was for me to come to terms with my introversion, rather than being apologetic for it. I used to fight against it thinking it was something I would eventually grow out of. That done often enough, I could train myself to enjoy going out to music festivals and nightclubs, as if meeting new people I'd never see again was somehow a sign of higher-order social skills. My introversion felt like a degenerate trait, like there was something inherently "wrong" with me.

Personally accepting my introversion has granted me a certain inner-peace that I hope more and more introverts can share in, and that fellow extroverts can appreciate.

Love, Noeline

xox 

10 reasons why I'm leaving my job, friends, family and boyfriend

I like lists. I make lists-

• To keep myself busy;
• To induce a sense of achievement when I get to cross something off;
• To give myself something to look forward to;
• To give some form of organisational structure to my life - both daily and in the long run; and
• Ultimately - to remind myself of the things I have yet to achieve and experience.

South America has been on my bucket list for a long, long time.

The news of my sudden departure has attracted a few interesting reactions such as:

'Is it because you hate your job?' - No.

'Are you going with your boyfriend?' - No.

'Oh, so you're going with friends, then?' - No (but I'll hopefully be making some).

'Are you scared?' - No.

'So why are you going?'

South America was never a matter of 'if,' but 'when,' so this is why I'm doing it now.

1. Because travel bug;
2. Because I've got two years of professional experience working in the media industry, which will make it easier for me to find a job when I get back;
3. Because this also means I've got two years worth of savings, and I like to spend it on experiences rather than things;
4. Because I miss hearing, seeing and speaking Spanish;
5. Because I've been going to the gym an average of 5 times a week for the past year and a half, so I'm never going to be as fit as I am now;
6. Because I don't have children whose financial expense, comfort and well-being I also need to worry about;
7. Because I don't have any lease, mortgage or car repayments to either hold me back completely, delay my departure or be an ongoing added expense while away;
8. Because I'm 25 and can't imagine any other time in my life where it's going to be as easy to take-off for 6 months;
9. Because I'm ready to go now - and refuse to wait any number of weeks, months or years for someone else to decide they're ready to come with me;
10. Because I have all the support in the world - from my ex-collegues, friends, family, and partner.

So with all my stars aligning, ¿por qué no?

Watch this space to follow my adventures over the next 6 months. Starting at Quito, I'll be following the dotted line below with Tucan Travel.

Love, Noeline

xox